🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.